Mount Harvey
February 16, 2022
It was a random Tuesday on a school night when my friend Braden called to ask if I wanted to go climb Harvey’s North ramp. I’d already been to the summit of Mount Harvey via the hiking route, but the winter mountaineering route is a North Shore classic.
– When would we go?
– Tonight!
– Well… yeah okay!
I would credit this trip as being my intro to the alpine and mountaineering world. While many people would say this is a crazy route to find out whether you’re okay with exposure or not, I was in a place where I would have said yes to literally anything – both for the experience and for the adventure.
As such, I was asleep by 6pm, with my alarm set and bags packed for my very first real alpine start at 3am. I could not have been more excited!
By 4am, Braden and I were starting up the trail from Lions Bay. As we walked, he talked me through the basics of using the ice axe and crampons that I was borrowing from him; dropping my heels for better kicks into ice, and the correct positioning for my legs to not get too tired. We talked about what it would look like if we needed to bail, major decision points, and the basics of how simul climbing works. Despite my bleary eyes, my brain was sharp and focused, and I absorbed every bit of knowledge I could from him. I was determined to be the best partner and belayer possible to maximize every chance of him inviting me on more cool routes in the future.
At the base of the couloir, we geared up. He told me about how you should always put your harness on before crampons to avoid tripping or ripping the material, and that I should start with a few less layers since it would be difficult to adjust while climbing. I was fascinated by all his little tidbits, and tucked away each bit of information to use in the future.
Looking up at the base of the couloir by headlamps
Feeling… so stoked. I think this photo captures that well.
As the sky began to lighten, we started making our way up the couloir. It started out fairly mild, but the angle quickly kicked back to almost 50°. Braden kindly stopped frequently to check in with me, cutting out little snow platforms in little nooks by the rock wall so we could take breaks and rest my calves.
As I climbed, the unfamiliar movements soon became a comfortable rhythm. Right hand, Left foot. Left hand, Right foot…… and so on. The snow was firm and stable, making for perfect front pointing conditions, but exhausting on my calves which were not whatsoever used to prolonged periods of climbing in stiff boots.
Starting up the first part of the ramp
Coming up to one of Braden’s little rest ledges. Sun coming up behind me
Around 3/4 of the way up the route, we reached a section with pure, well formed ice. Brayden had cut out another small platform for us, where he informed me that it would be best for us to put in practice the simul climbing he’d told me about. I was like, “for sure dude, I’ll belay you up whatever you want!” I don’t think I quite understood the concept yet.. but he told me “just don’t fall okay?” and off he went.
He placed 2 screws right off the bat in the thick ice, and I marveled at the sound of metal scraping into the frozen water and the little chunks of ice flying out the center of the screw. He then protected the rest of the pitch with a mix of snow pickets and pitons hammered into the wall.
When the rope ran out and came tight on my ATC, it was my time to go. I climbed out left from the belay and made my very first swings into ice. The feeling was marvelous, and I smiled to myself as each axe sunk into ice with a satisfying whack. I remembered to drop my heels as instructed, which helped a lot in finding a good stance while I removed the various pieces of protection.
When I finally rejoined Braden at a tree belay, we were both all smiles. What an epic route!! “I guess I’m not afraid of exposure!” I said, feeling very satisfied with myself.
The next part of the route was the traverse which is theory the “crux” of it, but it felt very chill compared with what we’d just done. The snow was much softer, and I could plunge my feet all the way in to bucket steps as we made the delicate traverse to the final ridgeline. We kept the rope on to this point due to the exposure, but Braden went light on protection, only slinging a couple trees as he went along.
Braden’s view looking back down the pitch. I think I was too focused to take photos…
Crossing the infamous traverse
Once across the traverse, it was a very simple climb to the summit on lower angle snow and interspersed trees. As we crested over the final ridge, I could have cried with how beautiful the views were. The sun was now up in the sky, and we were treated to the most insane cloud inversion I’ve ever seen over the North Shore mountains. The twin peaks of the Lions crested out behind us among a sea of endless clouds.
We spent a little while enjoying the summit and finally eating some much needed snacks, before making our descent down the summer hiking trail. Hilariously, I actually made it to my afternoon class in downtown after only a quick stopover for lunch!
I knew deep in my heart that this trip was only the beginning for me. I’d found my calling, my passion, and was slowly inching my way towards meeting all the right people to follow these dreams with. If Braden ever reads this, I hope he knows how thankful I am for him taking a chance on bringing me out as a partner, showing me so many things, and being patient with me. Despite the nature of the route, it turned out to be the perfect learning environment for me to fit a bunch of pieces together in my mind.
Braden climbing trees to the summit
Me coming up the last little bit of trees
The Hinge profile pic that sold Francis on dating me many months later 😉
Coming up the last little slope to the summit
Summit photo!!!
Braden & I on Mount Harvey
I couldn’t get enough of these views of the lions poking through the clouds… I think we were the only people in the sun on this morning!
Tired smiles as I walk back to the car. I can see in my face the mix of exhaustion and pure contentment. So happy!!