Prusik Peak West Ridge, 5.7
September 29, 2022
After Francis and I got together, we went on a bit of an alpine climbing fiesta which lasted about 3 months. We both were off work, and so took advantage by doing back to back to back climbs together, tackling many classics. Prusik Peak was another one on that list, suggested to us by Francis’ friend Elise. I hadn’t met Elise before, but Francis had recently done Mount Vayu with her, as well as Dragontail and Colchuk peak back in June, and they seemed very eager to show me around in the Enchantments. It didn’t take much convincing for me: just looking at a few photos was enough to know this area was worth a visit.
Francis and I met Elise down in Washington, and we all drove out to the Snow Lake trailhead where we camped in the truck. It was a late night and an early morning so we settled in quickly for bed, knowing little sleep would be had before our long day. I was soon awakened though when my stomach decided to turn itself upside down. I’d taken what I thought was a minor laxative, but it seemed its effects were a little too extreme and I spent most of the night in the pit toilet at the trailhead. When everyone’s alarm went off at 5am, I was wide awake but very unsure if I was ready to get going! I packed my bag nonetheless though, not wanting to miss out on an epic day.
The trail to Prusik was really long, but thankfully really easy. Francis and Elise had done the Asgard pass trail in to Dragontail and Colchuk, and decided it would be much easier to walk the longer snow lakes trail than to repeat the boulder hopping fiasco on the other side of the pass.
Less than 20 minutes into our walk my stomach completely gave up, and I found myself puking on the edge of the trail. Elise and Francis had taken off up ahead with it being such an easy walk, so I stumbled along after them, trying to chug water and replenish fluids. It was a bit of a nightmare, but thankfully I started feeling a lot better once we crested into the real alpine with gorgeous lakes and yellow larches. This was actually the first time I’d witnessed larch season, and I had no idea about the incredible beauty of these trees; it wasn’t even a reason I’d come on the trip!
The first larches I ever have seen!
The upper lake with Prusik Peak behind!
Approaching Prusik, the weather starting to turn
Looking up at the base of the route
It was only 10:30am when we had our first views of Prusik, but the weather was looking a little iffy, so Elise continued up ahead to see if she could get some service and check the weather again. When we rejoined her at the base of the route, she confirmed it was alright and just a little cloudy, so we decided to proceed, but with our warm layers on.
We soloed up the first couple pitches, enjoying fun hand jams on excellent rock, before finally roping up when we reached a large ledge on the ridge crest. From there we made a couple traversing pitches, swapping leads among the three of us to the base of the final headwall.
When I saw the finger crack in front of us, I knew I had to beg for this to be my lead, and my two companions thankfully gave it to me. It was great fun cruising up the more vertical crack, and to me it was definitely the crux of the route so it was cool to lead it. Following the finger crack, I climbed up this awesome flake, and belayed Francis & Elise up on a ledge.Â
Elise took us up the final pitch to the summit which was this short and funky squeeze chimney, and I took extra care not to damage my puffy as I jammed my way through it.
The summit was awesome, and with the clouds the lighting was actually super moody and magical. The views into the enchantments were also awesome, and I hope one day I can secure a permit to go deeper into the park and camp somewhere.
Soloing up P1
Super duper fun crack climbing!
Reaching the upper part of the ridge
Coming up a final crack before we set up a belay
The fall colours were amazing
Me following one of the ridgeline traversing pitches
Starting one of my leads
Elise and I waiting for Francis at a belay 🙂
Me belaying Francis up one of the pitches before the final headwall
The only photo with the three of us!
Francis climbing up a slabby bit
Leading up the super fun finger crack
Francis following me up that awesome flake
Trying not to rip my puffy :p
Views of the lakes from the summit!
Francis and I on Prusik Peak!
From the summit, we made four pretty straightforward rappels back to the ground, using old webbing which we checked over really carefully for any wear and tear. From there, we wrapped back around the north side of the summit to where we’d stashed gear at the base of the route.
The hike out went really smooth, and I enjoyed the views of the larches as we descended through the forest. By the time we reached the lower lake, we had our headlamps out, and then made the rest of the plod to the truck in silence. It made for a 40km day in total which was a stupidly long amount of walking compared to how many pitches we climbed, but honestly without having a camping permit it’s really the only way to see the area. From what I understand the Enchantments Lottery camping is especially difficult to get, so I’m really grateful I got to go in and see the area. It sure is gorgeous!
Elise and I in a rappel cave 😀
The trees wrapping back around the north side of the peak
Elise & I hiking out
The lower lake at sunset <3
Gear
- 1 60m twin rope
- Single rack of cams, a set of nuts, lots of slings