Stawamus Chief via "Calculus Crack & Butt Lite"
May 27, 2023
For my birthday each year since being an adult and on my own, my tradition is to do 3 “wishes.” These vary quite a bit from year to year: last year it was brunch, a car wash and a hike to Garibaldi lake with my sister and her boyfriend. This year my 3 wishes were to 1. My favourite birthday meal (perogis), 2. A bonfire on the beach, and 3. Eating chocolate cake mid-climb on the Chief with a bunch of friends.
I’d done the chief a few times previously: in 2014 I hiked to 1st peak, and I then climbed it in 2022 with Max, and then again hiked it with Lucia in 2023. This time I think it’s worth writing about though, since it was the most memorable time so far.
Not many friends would fit the description for this third wish, since they need to have a partner, and need to be able to actually climb the Chief. (A bit of an exclusive birthday party – oops! Good thing I planned a bonfire as well!) Of the friends that were up for this fun outing on the Chief and were also in town, I recruited Yunfei & HT, Alex & Trevor, and Mike & Allan. Not wanting to clog up any routes with my birthday party, I told everyone to find a route up the apron, and we would meet around lunchtime on the ledge to enjoy some cake.
Alex & Trevor got a head start early in the morning up Calculus Crack, and ended up waiting for us while we followed up a couple hours later. Yunfei & HT climbed the adjacent “Long time no see” route (which I took last time I climbed the chief with Max), and Francis and I headed up Caculus Crack. Mike and Allan took off on their own adventure up Milk Road on the very other side of the Chief, and agreed to meet us at the summit if the timing worked out.
Calculus crack was great fun, and we were quite efficient swinging leads through all the pitches. Our only slow down was (of course) waiting in the line with other parties. We even managed to share some happy yells with Yunfei & HT when we were able to see them from our pitches!
Once at the ledge on top of the apron with our little group of 6, Francis whipped out the Chocolate cake he’d got for me. We were surprised to find it was not in the least bit squished, and all the pretty layers of melty chocolate were intact. I also fulfilled my first birthday wish by bringing homemade perogis with me to eat for lunch! It was sunny out and the vibes were pretty damn high as we snacked away. Perogis, cake, and my wonderful friends.. what more can a girl ask for :’)
Leaving from the apron ledge to the summit, there’s only a few routes so we all stuck together for the hike. I led the first 5.8 pitch which has a bit of a scary runout but I proudly sent it clean! Yunfei & HT took a 10a variation and then headed up the Squamish Buttress while Alex & Trevor stuck with us for Butt Lite. I hadn’t done this route variation before, and I again took on the most exciting lead of the first 5.9 Butt Lite pitch. It started with a steep layback crack, and led into some interesting sporty moves with bolts. I really really enjoyed this pitch, and the following pitches had some great views as well as fun and easy climbing. We followed the ledge system, walking back and forth on some pitches, before finding cracks that led us upward to the end of the climb.
After a short hike, we all made it to the summit of the Chief where Mike & Allan had been waiting a few hours for us. I was surprised they’d stuck around, and we made sure to offer them the last piece of cake!
The hike out was easy as always, and we followed the well beaten path back down to the chief parking lot. Although there’s not many specific details to write about for this day, what I can say is: I’m stoked for all the sends I got and was climbing really strong, stoked for amazing friends, great food, and a fantastic climbing partner in Francis. 🙂
I will complete this trip report by noting that I did in fact have my third wish as well: the following day (my actual birthday on May 28), Francis, his brother Simon and girlfriend Lisa, as well as our friends Ashley and Jacob met us at the beach for a bonfire. Ashley was kind enough to bring a little charcuterie board with cheeses, chocolate and snacks, and we had a great hangout evening on the beach. Seriously 11/10 birthday, I am very grateful!
Gear
- Rope
- Double rack (just standard rock climbing day gear!)
