Trio Creek Spires via North Ramp, 5.6

June 3, 2023

It was the beginning of summer, and Francis and I were scoping up some alpine missions. We’d started our list of peaks to tackle together for the summer, and Francis was particularly keen on finding summits that had little to no information, or potentially no first ascents. Mike was also keen for this goal, with a focus on first climbing ascents – so we roped him in for the journey. 

As part of his research into summits, Francis found a pretty cool resource that lets you view really current satellite imagery. As he was scrolling through the many interesting peaks, he stumbled on this one which looked like it had a new service road as of this summer! He’d spotted this area on his trip to Mount Breakenridge this past winter and noted that it looked especially beautiful. With this tidbit of information, we decided to go on an exploratory mission up the new road to see if we could bushwhack and climb our way to the summit. 

For preparation, we really brought everything, not knowing what to expect. We had two full length twin ropes, lots of gear, and we even brought pitons for the slim chance that we had to bail of some sketchy rock with sparse pro. We were unsure about even getting up the road, and also had some suspicions that we’d arrive at the summit pyramid only to find a loose and unprotectable choss pile. Despite all these potential challenges, stoke was undeniably high, so we were definitely all keen to give it a shot no matter what we found.

We spent a good few hours driving out to Chilliwack then up the West Harrison FSR along the lake, before finally turning off onto our desired branch. Much to our surprise and good fortune, the road did indeed continue quite high, before we reached a locked gate. I suppose this is expected if they really are actively logging in this area, but we were high enough at this point that we decided parking and walking was a perfectly acceptable option. Off we went up the brand new switchbacks, passing some equipment as well as piles of dirt that were being moved all around to create the road. It was easy walking for awhile, before we finally reached the end of the road and the start of our bushwhack.

Once again we were pleasantly surprised that bushwhacking would not be the worst. With the beautiful old growth forest, trees were not so dense, and they were also impressively large. We were very heartbroken to think about this nice new road we were using for access was put in to destroy this incredible forest 🙁 It’s really saddening to think about how our best access to hikes is all because of government funding for destruction.. but I suppose that’s a topic for another time.

Francis standing beside one of the impressively large trees

A mix of spring snow and trees on this bushwhack

After bushwhacking for awhile, we started to reach intermittent patches of snow, and then the forest began opening up into the beautiful alpine. We walked along the ridgeline following the easiest way to go and after a bit of up and down, we soon stood looking up at the summit. Of course with us knowing there was no established route up this peak, it was totally up to us which way we’d decide to go. Looking at the face in front of us, it looked like it might go, but it also might be a little wet and loose as well as quite vertical. We made the call as a group to skirt around the north side of the summit to what looked like a ramp on the map, and try to ascend from there.

The most obvious route to gain this ramp involved a pretty open gully on some exposed snow, so we quickly stopped to strap on crampons and get out ice axes. After losing a bit of elevation, we made a direct beeline across the snow slope before gaining some more rock. This was an easy but mildly bushy upwards scramble until we gained a wide bench where we had a clear view of the north side of the mountain. Our hopes were greatly lifted at this point, since the route looked much easier from this side – a bit of steep snow, a few pitches of rock, then some easy scrambling to the summit.

Francis and Mike looking up at the potential route from the South side

Traversing the snow slope under the summit

Me on the next short scrambling section of rock

Starting up the steep snow section to the base of our route

Surprisingly everything from this point forward went as we expected. The snow approach was steep but totally doable, and we found a nice (small and cold) belay spot standing between the rock and the snow. Mike took the first lead up some solid (but wet) rock, and then belayed us up from a bush. Because the ropes were so tangled around bushes, it was easier for him to continue leading than for us to sort out the mess of ropes. He took us up two more short pitches of bushwhacking and a couple rocky moves, before the terrain levelled out again. 

It was a short scramble to the summit, where we were a little bit disappointed to find an existing summit cairn. The chances were low, but it definitely would have been cool if we were the first! We enjoyed a snack break and some excellent views of some big and very remote mountains from the summit. There was even cell reception at the top, which was convenient because we’d noticed a wildfire starting just a couple valleys over and were able to call it in. 

Me on the final snow section looking up at the route

Mike starting up the first pitch of rock

The hilariously bushy first belay

The trio on Trio Creek Spires!

After a leisurely break, it was getting late and time to start our journey down. We decided to rap off that south face since we’d seen trees scattered on the way up, and it was fairly straightforward to sling some nice thick trees on the way down. We made some speedy rappels and then were soon back onto the snowy col, having skipped the steep snow from earlier. On the way down, we saw a group of about 5 little float planes over Harrison lake, and wondered if maybe they were showing up to fight the fire we’d reported earlier. They made a couple laps of the lake though, skipping the fire entirely and seemingly performing funky tricks in follow-the-leader style. Maybe it was some kind of training exercise? We were pretty transfixed as we made out way down the mountain!

Mike and Francis heading down from the summit

Back on the hike, sun is setting now

We enjoyed a lovely sunset in the alpine, and then made most of our bushwhacking descent in darkness. Sometimes I will admit it’s nice to have Francis’ fancy watch, because without pulling our phones out, we’re able to see whether we’re still following the same route we took on the ascent. This definitely helped keep us in the right direction, and we soon burst out onto the road under the moonlight. 

By this point we were pretty exhausted, and started counting switchbacks. I think it’s a little strange how tired we were considering it wasn’t a long hike, everything went really smoothly, and we didn’t really encounter any setbacks during the day. I guess sometimes alpine things are just time consuming: route finding, rope management, and transitions between snow, rock, hiking and crampons etc. 

Back at the car, as the boys were switching out their muddy shoes, I could hear a frog REALLY close by. Despite how tired I was, I cannot explain to you how much I love frogs, and I spent almost 10 minutes searching a nearby puddle for the little guy. When I finally found him, he almost dove off but I snatched that slimy sucker and held him for a little bit as he looked at me in disbelief. I’ve attached a photo because it might have been up there in trip highlights for me. He was so cute and slimy!!

The drive home was rough. We left Mike in Chilliwack who made it home with a short drive, but Francis and I hadn’t eaten since lunch time and were both starving and really sleepy. We made a stop at a 24/7 A&W with the intention of getting a burger to satisfy at least one of these problems but we both immediately fell asleep while parked out front. I think we woke up somewhere around 3am, still exhausted but now less hungry, and really wanting to be home. Francis took over driving, and around 5am he woke me up as we’d arrived home. Both of us dropped straight into bed. Breakfast (or lunch.. or dinner? I guess?) could wait until we woke up. Sometimes it’s good to be done a long mission on a Saturday so you can have a full Sunday to rest!!

Pretty pink sunset 🙂

The last of the light before we turned headlamps on

Sunset pano – Trio creek spires on the right

Mister frog!

Gear

  • 2 60m twin ropes
  • Single rack of cams, a set of nuts, lots of slings
  • Ice axe & Crampons
  • Some pitons (that we didn’t use)