Joffre Peak via Aussie Couloir
February 7, 2024
I was just coming off a particularly low mental health week and my very supportive friend Geoff was keen to pick an objective for Wednesday that would get me out of my head. Our criteria was to find something fun, somewhat technical that would be both a challenge but also something we knew we could succeed at. This last part was crucial: sometimes you just need a win in the mountains to lift your spirits. We flip flopped between what seemed like hundreds of ideas before finally settling on Aussie couloir. With a great weather window and stable snow conditions, we felt really confident that the couloir would be in great shape. Geoff recruited his friend Holly because she would “kill him” if he did it without her, but I was happy to have an extra party for the glacier so our team of three was set. 🙂
We left Vancouver at 3am, picking Geoff up in Squamish, and were ready to walk on the trail just before 7am. I had last minute opted to bring snowshoes instead of skis and the minute we started on the trail I knew I’d made the right call. It was mostly dirt with some ice for the first few km, and after that lots of random rocks with crusty snow. By the time we reached the hut the snow was no better, and we were still walking in microspikes, not even punching through the thick crusty snow layer.
In the hut, Holly was feeling pretty low on energy already after having expended most of it on previous days’ missions, but with some snacks and some encouragement she decided to push on with us to the top of the glacier where there would at least be some great views. Another sad realization I made at the hut is that I forgot my sunglasses at home!! I could picture them sitting there on the coffee table with absolutely nothing I could do about it now. I debated making some improv-glasses using climbing tape with slits for holes, since my eyes are so light that there’s no chance I’d make it on a full day of snow with no glasses… but Holly came to my rescue with a second pair of sunglasses in her pack!! What an absolute life saver!
Crossing the sketchy log bridge at the beginning of our day
Starting to see the sunrise on Joffre and Matier
Terrible conditions coming through the meadows
MUCH less filled in than when I did Matier last year!
First views of the Anniversary glacier
Arriving at Keith hut
From the hut, it was more hard packed snow with microspikes right up to the Anniversary glacier, at which point we decided to put snowshoes and ropes on. We could see some exposed crevasses and rocks poking through, so we knew the snow coverage was pretty marginal. The trail was easy to follow all the way up the glacier though, and we didn’t find any surprise crevasses.Â
It was already mid day, so from the Anniversary col we quickly booted down to the base of the Aussie couloir where we took a break to ditch some gear and switch to crampons. Holly was feeling exhausted at this point, and was worried that the way down the couloir would give her “jelly legs.” Due to it being another 400m of elevation, there was no doubt it would be exhausting so she opted to have a nice alpine nap while Geoff and I took off up the couloir.
Flexin in these sick sunglasses Holly lent me
Our group!
Heading up to the glacier
Holly coming up through an old slide path
Geoff of course scoping out some ice lines
Now roped up on the glacier
A pretty exposed crevasse – I think I skied over this last year!
At the Anniversary Col
Walking down to the base of the couloir
There she is.. looking steep!
The snow was in absolutely perfect condition as we’d anticipated – well bonded and stable, with boot prints already kicked in from previous parties. It was very quick travel as we made our way up the couloir staircase. The weather was much warmer than the -8C the forecast had predicted, and as we began to work up a sweat, Geoff switched to a t-shirt while I rolled up my sleeves and layered down as much as possible. We were getting true spring conditions in mid February!
The views were so stunning but as we climbed up, a large cloud began to roll in behind us. It was mostly just fog but it would definitely take away our views. As I began losing steam near the top, I urged Geoff to push on to the summit where he could at least get some photos for us before the clouds rolled in. He did so, but then returned to the top of the couloir where he yelled encouragements down to me as I pushed through the final 20 meters.Â
Starting up Aussie couloir
More climbing
.. and more climbing
A photo Holly took of Geoff and I on the climb!
Down to t-shirts now, it’s hot!
And finally at the summit!
The summit itself was stunning, though a little socked in. With the last of my energy we traversed a little, and then climbed up to the true peak. I collapsed on the summit, totally spent with my legs shaking a little – I’d pushed pretty hard up that couloir! We stayed back from the edge since we could see quite a few cornices along the ridge, and neither of us had any desire to go plummeting down Joffre’s steep North face.Â
After a quick snack, the wind was starting to get to me and there wasn’t much to look at in the clouds so we decided to head down. The first few steps in the couloir were pretty scary for me with my Jell-o legs, but I soon realized I didn’t even have to face in to the snow. Geoff dug his heels in and began running down the steep slope, and much to my surprise I realized the couloir wasn’t really that steep after all. We’d joked about bringing sleds (which would be so stupid and dangerous), but we did decide at some point that we could just sit down and slide! If I didn’t have my skis, I could at least have a fun ride down the couloir – the conditions were perfect for it anyhow with lots of fluffy powder to slow us down.Â
In less than 15 minutes, we’d reversed what had taken us around an hour on the way up, and made it back to where Holly was wrapped up in her emergency blanket taking a nap. The clouds had fully rolled in now, but with some small gaps we could see the sunset colours coming through on the surrounding mountains. We were happy to be off the couloir before dark, and quickly packed up all our gear to reverse our route back down.
Views from the true summit, including a little cornice!
Geoff running down the first bit of the couloir
Me sliding down the couloir
Absolutely laughing my head off. This was so fun!
Geoff back down near the base of the couloir
The unconsolidated snow made for fast travel over the glacier, but terrible sidehilling back to the hut. We made it there just after sunset, and went inside for a little while to warm up by the fire. Other ski tourers had began to pile in for the night, so we soon made our exit back to the car.Â
The rest of the walk was in full darkness, with no stars or moon to light our path, and I was again happy to not be dealing with skis. We made it back to the car around 8pm, making our journey in just over 13 hours. It was a beautiful day, and successfully completed the goal of lifting my spirits. There’s just nothing like a good day in the mountains. 🙂
We did it!
All ready to head home 🙂
Sunset on the Matier glacier
More sunset views on the Anniversary glacier
Off the glacier now, time for headlamps